How to fix: marine bilge pumps, thru-hull fittings, and more

Does your bilge pump seize up? Here's a trick.

DYI bilge pumps and leaking thru-hull fittings

Over the years, I've had bilge pumps seize up because debris or worse, fishing line, ended up wrapping around the impeller. Bam! No working bilge pump. It happened once when I was in a huge downpour on Sam Rayburn Reservoir. Not only was I taking on water from the rain, but it was super windy and waves were crashing in the boat.

We had so much water come in, we could not get on plane. No working bilge pump either!

If I had ordered the boat new from the factory, I would have had a second bilge pump installed. (I highly recommend this.) As it was, I bought the boat new from dealer's stock. (See my earlier blog posts about my boat-buying quest.)

We had to idle in; we barely made it.

After the trip, I replaced the bilge pump. It worked great, but I still had a leak. Here I go again — take everything out so I can get to the the bilge area. Got to find that leak.

To get to the bottom of the bilge area, I need to take out one battery and two PowerPole pumps. It's not hard, but a pain none the less.

Once I got to where I could reach the hoses, I noticed one hose fitting on a thru-hull fitting seemed loose. So I gave it a little wiggle. Guess what? The fitting was split at the water line. No wonder it was leaking. Below is a photo of the broken thru-hull (right) and a new stainless steel replacement fitting (left).

From first look, the broken fitting looks like a stainless steel fitting. Is is not. Ok, permanent fix time: I replaced every thru-hull fitting with stainless steel fittings. For my boat, I needed both 3/4 inch and 1-1/8 inch fittings. See links below to Attwood brand fittings on Amazon.

New stainless steel thru-hull vs. broken factory installed fitting

Back to the bilge pump problem. Once again, my bilge pump failed. Now why? Yup, more line wrapped in the impeller. Somehow a chunk of braided line went to the bottom of my hull. It was a piece I remember pulling out of the water someone discarded. I put it in a small compartment in my boat. I surmise my grandson was playing while we were fishing and found it. He probably thought it was cool to stuff it through the drain plate on the floor. It eventually made it to the pump. When I took the pump off, half of the line was bound inside and part of it still was on the outside of the bracket.

It hit me. The slots/holes on the bracket are too big — big enough to let in debris and line. Time to solve that problem.

Your bilge pump may look like mine shown here. Mine has a 1-1/8 inch hose requirement.

attwood 1100 GPH bilge pump

Notice the tabs above the mounting bracket? Just squeeze both sides and you can lift the pump assembly out of the holder. That makes it easy to replace the pump. (After detaching/attaching hose, and rewiring the new pump in.)

Here is an Amazon link to the bilge pump: attwood 1100 gph bilge pump.

But that really doesn't prevent the same issues I had been having. (Remember, getting line and debris inside the impeller area.)

When you buy a new pump, it comes with a new bracket. I set it aside (in case my idea didn't work) and removed the old bracket from the bottom of the hull.

Then drilled small holes all the way around the bracket. I was careful not to drill where there could be weak spots, the release tabs may be affected or if a wire could impede the operation of the impeller.

Drilled bilge pump mounting bracket

Fine, flexible crafting wire 

Getting the bracket ready to wrap with mesh screen

Taking a small mesh screen, I wrapped the bracket completely. I used some thin pieces of wire we had around the house from my wife's crafts' projects.

The wrapping process begins... I wrapped the bracket to make sure no debris could get in. This picture shows the wrap in progress. The final step was to tighten wire loops and pull out any kinks. I straightened all the areas where the mesh buckled up on the bottom of the bracket so it attached to the hull bottom snugly. (Somehow, I missed getting a picture of the final project.)

Wrapping the base bracket with wire mesh.

I have an extra mounting bracket so if I ever need to change it, I can.

Final thought: will the finer mesh screen put a strain on the pump? What will be the longevity of the pump if it has to work harder to pull water into the pump? I have been using it this way for several months. If I can get several years out of it, great.

Here's the Scoop on Lithium Marine Batteries

Are They Worth It?

I had been considering buying lithium batteries for some time. But I wondered if it was the worth the cost. I decided to go for it when I discovered two of my four lead-acid batteries needing replacing.

A year ago, I had removed and reinstalled the batteries in order of purchase dates so the oldest battery would be the easiest one to remove. Oops — the newest battery in the hardest-to-reach spot is the one that died first. Go figure. The other battery needing replacement was the cranking battery. So, since I had to take them all out, I decided to go all in on lithium.

So I began researching. Most of the dealers I contacted didn't have a "deep cycle" version, but I found the Ionic battery and they have a 125AH battery that works as a cranking battery. It starts my 250 hp Yamaha with no problems. I bought three 12Volt, 100AH and one 12Volt, 125AH batteries.

So, it's too early to tell about life span. But this is what I have discovered:

• Be prepared for a change in the way your boat handles. (Definitely peppier)
• Depending on what size batteries you get, the space savings might not be as much as you hope. Because I bought the 100AH series, I used the old battery trays I already had.
• You can fish several days without charging. (Not recommended for tournament days.)
• The battery charger should have the lithium profile. (I had to buy a new charger too.)
• The batteries weigh less, so it makes it easier to lift and install them. (Especially handy for me.)
• I can get on plane much easier even with a full tournament load and full livewells. (Now, my non-boater doesn't have to crawl toward the front deck to drop the nose. A huge safety concern I had.)
• A full tournament day does not drain the 125AH cranking battery with livewells running, three electronic units, HydroWave, and Garmin Panoptix (not Livescope). (That was not the case with my old starting battery.)
• Some anglers choose a single 36-volt battery. I considered getting two 36V batteries, but the cost was getting up there. I opted for the 12 volt batteries because if I have an issue with one, it is less money to replace just one.
• My batteries arrived with a 60- to 70% charge. (The charge did not drop from the time they arrived to the time I installed and finally plugged them in to charge the first time.)
• The batteries have built in Bluetooth so you can monitor them via an app. (How cool is that!)

The batteries can be purchased through several dealerships. 

Top 3 Black Friday Ideas

Tackle Junkies Love Black Friday

This is a great time of year to find great deals on new tackle or replacing lost tackle.

New fishing reels on sale for Black Friday

And frankly, some stuff just wears out and needs to be replaced. Here are some deals I like.

Idea one. Get a great rod.

My favorite rod brand is Kistler Rods.

Here is another tip: go to the Kistler website and sign up for the email list so you get notified when new sales come around.

If your family is looking for ideas to get you for Christmas gifts, suggest they buy you a new Z-bone rod.

Idea two.

Everyone needs more tackle. If you are looking for general tackle sales, check out Monster Tackle (Outdoor Pro Shop).

I have bought a lot of tackle from Monster Tackle and they are easy to work with. Plus, some of their non-sale prices throughout the year are less than many other online stores.

Idea three. Get new reels at a good price.

Here's a bonus tip:

How to Catch Bass at Night — 20 great tips

Here are 5 things to know to catch bass at night — plus 15 more tips for success.

When it gets so hot that just picking up a rod from the boat deck can burn your hand, it’s time to enjoy the nightlife.

Getting to your favorite spot before it is too dark can be helpful.

Much like daytime movements, bass position themselves on structure and around cover. 

Their active moods are dictated by light such as moon brightness or ambient lighting from dock lights. 

A full moon doesn’t always mean the best fishing. These are the things to look for first:

1. When there is too much light, such as a full moon, the bass can be anywhere and tend to stay deeper. Fish much of the same deep structure you do in the day. 
2. When it is darker (quarter or new moon, for example), the bass congregate in specific areas—but especially hover around dock lights.   
3. Bass relate better to under water lights than above water lights. Keep an eye out for those. But, what really helps is green lights over white lights. So the best option for night fishing is underwater green lights.      
4. Use the same lure color schemes as in daylight—dark nights, dark lures; bright nights, and bright lures.     
5. Don’t be afraid to go big. Big jigs, 10-inch or longer worms, etc. when fishing in the dark. Go with very small, natural looking lures if you fish right in the lights. (Caveat as usual—these tips are starting points. Change often if they’re not working.)     

This bass fell to a black spinner bait in the pitch dark.

Fishing at night requires some planning and preparation. Things can wrong in a hurry in the dark.

Use these tips to stay safe and have a great experience. Remember, safety is the number one concern.

• Check the weather before you go. Stormy conditions can be more treacherous at night when you can’t see. 

• Scout the lake for possible fish holding locations in the daylight. If your electronics have GPS, set up a path to follow to get to your spots. 

• It is hard to spot obstructions at night. Slow down. And even at a slow speed — barely on plane — hitting a floating log can do a lot of damage and cause serious injury. 

• One of the most common boating mishaps is running into a dock at high speed at night. You lose your perspective of distance in the dark. 

• Even when your eyes adjust to the dark, when you run from spot to spot, the running lights can put off enough light to partially blind you. 

• Always wear clear safety glasses at night to protect your eyes from insects as you drive from spot to spot and to save your eye from snagged lures that can come flying back at you with no notice. You know you’re going to hang up and when you attempt to get the lure unsnagged, you won’t see it coming. Getting stuck with a hook in a body part is bad enough, but it is catastrophic if it’s in your eye. 

• Make sure your navigation and anchor lights are working correctly.   

• Get a good inflatable life jacket and wear it all times; it’s easy to lose your balance and fall out of the boat in the daytime—it’s even more likely to happen at night. 

• A spotlight is very useful for navigating when it is very dark. 

• Keep safety gear such as a throw-able float cushion and fire extinguisher readily accessible 

• Make sure your cell phone is charged and in a safe, waterproof area. I keep mine in a zip lock bag in the glove box. Carry a phone charging cord to plug into the 12V accessory port or a portable cell phone battery booster in case the big engine battery dies. 

• Cell service is not a guarantee on many sprawling lakes so be prepared with another form of signal device. 

• Keep a small portable battery charger in the boat, one suitable for starting cars and big engines. There are many options for under $100. 

• Let people know where you are and when you will be back.  It seems so simple, but it has saved numerous lives when followed.

• Don’t forget to pack rain gear and jackets. Even a slight drop in daytime temperatures can cause a chill. Some lakes are susceptible to cooling air temperatures at night. Especially, lakes/rivers with a big inflow from upstream dams releasing colder water. 

By shopping with these affiliates you're supporting this blog! #sp


Amazon Has Great Deals on Fishing Rods and Reels

Canyon Lake, Texas — Brush Piles

TPWD and partners maintain a series of brush piles on Canyon Lake, Texas.

The brush piles are updated annually (for the most part),
especially on the lower half of the lake (nearer the dam).

Here are the GPS coordinates.

Canyon Reservoir Fish Attractor Project Updated April 26, 2016 Site # Lat/Long Attractor Description Installed Last Supplemented 1 N 29o51.697' Mouth of Turkey Cove on east main lake point along river channel drop. W -98o13.027' 2005 2014 2 N 29o51.597' In Turkey Cove on rocky bald Y-point splitting cove. W -98o13.190' 2005 2014 3 N 29o53.707' Along Jacobs Creek channel drop off.  W -98o12.911' 2005 2016 4 N 29o51.096' Along creek channel drop in small cove uplake from dam. W -98o12.693' 2005 2014 5 N 29o51.676' Bald secondary point on North side of Turkey Cove east of ramp. W -98o13.394' 2005 2013 6 N 29o53.918' West side of long rocky point between Cranes Mill and Potters Creek along river channel drop.  W -98o16.949' 2005 2015 7 N 29o53.979' West side of long rocky point between Cranes Mill and Potters Creek along river channel drop.  W -98o16.994' 2005 2016 8 N 29o54.554' On main point splitting north side cove along deep ledge. W -98o17.814' 2005 2013 9 N 29o54.467' Main lake point up-river from water pipeline along deep river channel drop. W -98o17.361' 2005 2013 10 N 29o54.118' End of bald clay point at Potter's Creek Park near river channel drop. W -98o16.157' 2005 2015 11 N 29o53.492' Cranes Mill fishing pier. Along North edge of pier and in middle pier hole. W -98o17.690' 2005 2013 12 N 29o53.343' Ledge along steep bank near point. W -98o15.866' 2005 2015 13 N 29o53.698' Ledge on rocky bank along east side of Canyon Park in ramp cove. W -98o13.840' 2005 2014 14 N 29o53.756' Ledge on rocky bank along east side of Canyon Park in ramp cove. W -98o13.839' 2005 2014 15 N 29o54.539' End of extended point west of Canyon Park area near drop off. W -98o14.247' 2005 2015 16 N 29o51.530' On southeast side of Comal Park cove along creek channel drop.  W -98o14.722' 2005 2014 17 N 29o52.762' End of west Jacobs Creek main lake point. W -98o13.514' 2005 2015 18 N 29o52.669' End of east Jacobs Creek main lake point. W -98o13.467' 2005 2015 19 N 29o52.181' East side of North Park main lake point. W -98o12.362' 2007 2015 20 N 29o51.913' Along drop off on North Park extended main lake point. W -98o12.422' 2007 2013 21 N 29o51.835' Southeast corner of dam. W -98o11.844' 2007 2015 22 N 29o52.419' Northeast corner of dam. W -98o11.994' 2007 2015 23 N 29o52.301' On the end of island/hump marked with buoy. W -98o13.973' 2007 2014 24 N 29o51.642' Along creek channel near Comal Park. W -98o14.892' 2007 2015 25 N 29o52.608' East side of Jacobs Creek main lake point. W -98o13.269' 2007 2013 26 N 29o52.538' On the end of point northeast of Tom Creek boat ramp. W -98o15.475' 2007 2016 27 N 29o54.033' Along ledge on east side of Potters Creek Park. W -98o15.873' 2007 2014 28 N 29o54.246' Along ledge between Cranes Mill Park and water pipelines. W -98o17.323' 2007 2016 29 N 29o54.150' On point south of Potters Creek West boat ramp. W -98o16.668' 2007 2016 30 N 29o53.392' On Canyon Park main lake point. W -98o14.405' 2007 2013 31 N 29o54.571' End of extended point west of Canyon Park area near drop off. W -98o14.239' 2007 2016 32 N 29o54.416' Along creek channel northwest of island across from Canyon Lake marina. W -98o15.077' 2007 2016 33 N 29o54.754' On submerged Cranes Mill Road Bed, south of County Ramp 23. W -98o17.483' 2008 2016 34 N 29o53.496' Near Cranes Mill Park, north of marina. W -98o17.268' 2008 2013 35 N 29o54.079' Off east side of point, on opposite side of cove from Potters Creek ramp. W -98o16.844' 2008 2013 36 N 29o54.442' Hump near river channel, south of Mystic Shores. W -98o17.619' 2009 2016 37 N 29o53.974' River channel edge, east of Potters Creek. W -98o15.828' 2009 2016 38 N 29o53.334' Flat point near river channel ledge. W -98o15.211' 2009 2016 39 N 29o53.768' Hump North of Cranes Mill Marina. W -98o17.171' 2010 2016 40 N 29o51.619' Creek channel bend near Comal Park. W -98o14.837' 2010 2014 41 N 29o53.794' Hump on end of point near Canyon Park boat ramps. W -98o13.711' 2010 2013 42 N 29o53.648' On big point in Jacobs Creek splitting arms W -98o13.278' 2011 2014 43 N 29o51.968' Near drop off on extended main lake point near North Park. W -98o12.413' 2014 GPS coordinates are in degree decimal minutes. Sites 1 through 15 include artificial fish attractors. Some sites have been removed/renumbered from previous years.

Check out this time-lapse video.


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